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An interesting read! The new GRX parts are more versatile than advertised. Works really well! The best "approved" chain capacity is 40T which would max me out at T in the rear and front crank of T. I know and have pushed the Chain capacity limits in the past, but it is always more comforting when someone has already tried an "unapproved" combo. Shimano hasn't really abandoned the triple crank, they just don't sell them here in the US.
As mentioned, the problem is Shimano doesn't distribute them here and most UK and German on-line dealers now won't ship to the US. If you know anyone in Europe they could buy and ship them to you privately. Those cranksets are really "mountain" cranksets, though, with Q-factors and chain lines that are suboptimal for a road bike. They're definitely not full-blown mountain cranks.
A typical modern MTB crankset has a Q factor of somewhere between , depending on brand. Shimano's road cranks have a Q factor of mm and GRX is The wider chainline 2. I just bought an Co-op ADV 3. I do enjoy the double up front, but I also have no problem with my stable of triples either. Don't have a real need for 1X. Sorry SRAM. I have no idea how much it cost Shimano to develope this new group But seems to be the lowest available with GRX.
Couldn't they have just made a modified version of either their drop-bar brifters that pulls mtb cable, or a modified mtb derailleur that works with road pull ratios. Doesn't seem like rocket science to me. I'm not sure what's wrong with 1x11 or 1x12? I bikepacked on one this summer and it seems plenty low and bigger jumps between ratios isn't really all that annoying. And maybe the budget-constrained traveler will end up with the lower priced 3x9 set-up anyway, which despite being inexpensive can be quite reliable.
And then there is the "serious" tourists who have the cash, and they should spring for an internal hub bike anyway. You can get a bike that "does it all" but it won't do it all equally well. Enter your email address and we'll send you an email that will allow you to reset it. If you no longer have access to the email address call our memberships department at or email us at memberships adventurecycling. Newsletters Magazine Podcast. Gear Maps Apparel Specials. Join Renew Donate Advocate.
Courtesy Shimano. Bikes and Gear. The new GRX group's braking is all hydraulic, but the drivetrain comes in 1x and 2x configurations. With "sub" levers, the bar gets busy but offers powerful stopping from any hand position. Fine testing grounds for a group aimed at gravel and adventure riders. Laura Killingbeck. White Cliffs of Arkansas. Jessica Alexander. New To You, Part 1. Alex Strickland.
You also said nothing about the cost or longevity of these chains. I am looking doing this exact setup Can you please share your setup? Thank you in advance for your help. SRAM will offer the new levers at the Force 1, Rival 1, and Apex 1 groupset levels, exclusively for use with hydraulic disc brakes and single-chainring drivetrains. Finally, SRAM has also unveiled a new disc-brake rotor for road use called Paceline, which the company says runs quieter than previous brake track designs, particularly when hot.
Paceline rotors will be offered only in mm and mm diameters, for use with six-bolt or Center Lock splined interfaces. Whereas Red-level cassettes are mostly machined from a single giant chunk of steel, Force-level cassettes use individual steel sprockets that are connected around their circumferences via a series of press-fit pins. Just in case you were wondering. Product reviews. The new wide-range Force setup will undoubtedly be very well received seeing as how it fills a big hole in the existing lineup.
Photo: John Watson. This ratio only exists at the Force level for now, though, and many riders will still pine for a something option. Actual weight is grams. SRAM is assuming that riders who are most interested in that sort of gearing will also be running the wider tires that need the chainring offset and additional clearance. Actual weight for the complete crankset without bottom bracket is grams.
Good things come to those that wait, apparently. New dropper post-compatible mechanical levers, too On the mechanical side, riders on single-chainring SRAM drivetrains and cable-actuated dropper seatposts no longer have to resort to DIY hacks or dodgy bolt-on remotes. Smaller brands and individual riders have already been gutting their left-hand SRAM mechanical levers for years in order to use them as integrated remotes for dropper seatposts, but SRAM is now finally offering them pre-gutted from the factory.
Click here for details. These chainrings have the teeth slightly farther to the right than the older chainrings to work a little better with the narrower chains. There is no difference whatever in the crank spiders. The manufacturers also are concerned about clueless users. The worst-case scenario is that you will be riding along with the bike in its highest gear large front, small rear and then for some bizarre reason shift down in front before downshifting in the back.
There is no shift pattern in which it is reasonable to shift in this sequence. In practice this "problem" almost never materializes. Many, many cyclists are using 9- and speed chains with older cranksets and having no problems whatever. Long-cage SGS derailers have greater takeup capacity , and work with all types of cassettes. Long-cage derailers are commonly called "mountain" derailers currently, though in the past, this style of derailer was known as a "touring" derailer.
The marketeers retired the use of "touring" as a buzzword in the late '80s when mountain bikes became the hot item. An additional complication is that "road" front derailer cages are shaped to fit well with a tooth big chainring, while most current "mountain" front cages are shaped to fit with a tooth big ring. This makes it difficult if you want to use a "road" crankset, with full-sized chainrings 52, 53 top with straight handlebars, or if you want to use a "mountain" crankset tooth top with drop-bar STI shifters.
Although "Road" and "Mountain" hubs are no different as far as cassette fitting is concerned, they are different in terms of overall spacing. The wider mm spacing will generally result in a slightly stronger wheel due to reduced dishing of the spokes. Accessories Bicycles Parts Specials Tools. Translations of this article: French Italian. There are, on the other hand, some real compatibility issues. This usually goes along with the correct number of clicks -- though a shifter with an extra click also can work, as long as the spacing is OK.
Friction shifters have no compatibility issues, they work with everything. Cassettes It is really the cassette that determines how many speeds you have in back. See my " Spacing Cribsheet " for more details on this. Chain As you go to more sprockets on the cassette, you need a narrower chain. However, using a chain one size narrower than standard rarely presents any problem. Thus, you can use a "9-speed" chain with a 7-speed or 8-speed system, or a "speed" chain with a 9-speed system.
This is not the ideal approach -- shifting may not be quite as smooth -- but it's workable. This applies to all indexable models, basically everything manufactured since the late s. There are a few exceptions: Campagnolo's first attempt at indexed shifting, "Synchro" was designed to work with older Campagnolo derailers, but the cable travel was too short and cable tension too high for reliable indexing. In the early s, Campagnolo abandoned the Synchro system and redesigned everything around a longer cable travel.
I don't know the exact year of this change, but I believe it happened at the same time as the move from 7-speed to 8-speed. Campagnolo made a very slight change in indexing in Supposedly, you need to use or later shifters with or later rear derailers, but the difference is so small that it doesn't matter in practice. Shimano Dura-Ace models from and earlier pre "9-speed" need to be used with matching shifters.
See my Dura-Ace Interchangeability Page for details. Shimano "Dyna-Sys" shifters and derailers use a longer cable pull than other Shimano models, and must be used together. SRAM has two different derailer systems. Front derailers are generally 2- or 3- chainring specific.
They generally work OK with double chainrings as long as the step between the chainring sizes is matched to the derailer. If the step is larger, shifting from the small to the middle chainring will require some care and skill. In fact, you may need to upshift all the way to the big chainring, then jump back down to the middle. Old-Style Thread-on Freewheel Systems The freewheel threading on these older hubs is generally interchangeable except for some very old French units.
Campagnolo 8-speed cassettes used a slightly different spline pattern from the current pattern used for 9-and speed systems. In general, all Shimano Cassette Freehubs will work with all Shimano cassettes, any number of speeds. There are a very few exceptions: 7-speed hubs won't normally accept 8-, 9- or 10 speed cassettes without modification. Older "Uniglide" Freehubs including all 6-speed units won't accept modern cassettes without modification.
I cant believe we still have to use derailleurs and replaceable hangers, its a joke, surely there's a better way. It seems its acceptable to have an expensive part of your bike right where your likely to bash it off. Rasterman Apr 14, at CarlosMC, hard to believe it would be perceptible, do you have any data to back that up?
I have to agree with CarlosMC. With my Hammerschmidt, I notice myself spending a lot more time in the ratio granny mode where there is no power loss. I definately do notice the slight loss of power and snappiness in high gear mode compared to using the middle ring on my other bike.
Since I mainly ride super steep climbs followed by long decents, the Hammerschmidt works well for me. When I'm on flat terrain and need to be in the middle chainring for a long time, I notice the drag. Kitejumping Apr 14, at Interesting stuff. Looks good this casette, but how are you supposed to press the seal in when cogs are in the way? Im pretty sure taking the cassette out will be similar, just undo the axel in the hope hubs like you currently do and removing the cassette should be just like removing a current hope freehub body no?
Atleast that would make sense. Yes I agree. A problem that doesn't exist. On my XC bike I am currently running a 9 speed cassette made from a variety of shimano rings and last 4 sprockets from a capreo system, i have gears of and I have a Single 27 tooth middleburn ring on the front. I would recommend this to everyone who doesnt use all their gears, i get around 22 to 78 gear inches which is plenty for me. Please build a 9 or 10 speed T or T for the 4x-er and downhiller among us!
Also make the 2 biggest cogs removable and eventually replaceable with a specialized demo style chain guide plate. A lot of us are using Hope Pro 2 rear hubs. I'll be one of the first to buy one. I may have missed it, but I didn't see mention of the sensativity to misalinement of the rear derailer, ie 10 increments that are smaller are going to be afffected more by misalingment than say a 7 speed der would, making adjustments that much more difficult or a "bump" to the der having that much more of an effect.
Or is this even relevant?? Hammerschmidt Apr 14, at I run 1x9, T cassete and 34T chainring on my stinky. I ride my stinky on dh and trail riding. Would like to get 30T or 32T chainring with T cassette, cuz I get too burned currently on the climbs. I strongly agree with single chain rings up front for all bicycles, no matter the style, yo. When BMX went to ultra small drivetrain I noticed way more broken chains.
Smaller gears means higher tension in the chain. Smaller gears means faster wearing. Shimano's Dynasys 10 speed theory talks about having a bigger granny ring partially to reduce tension on the chain. For all this stuff there will be trade-offs. If you want a really broad range of gears go 3x10 or 3x9 - no real difference in my mind. If you're strong and never use the ultra-low gears go 2x Maverickdh00 Apr 17, at I like Hopes 9x36t but the integrated cassette and proprietary with only Hope hubs is a weakness and an increase in the cost of the cassette when it needs replacing, both weaknesses imo, the 9x 36t is great though, so be interesting to see Srams take on this when in production, though not keen on 10spd when its obviously not needed!
For DH its definitely the way and should have always been the way, MTB has always unfortunately been afflicted with trickle down from Road bike technology and innovation which we end up having to put up with on MTB bikes which are more like MX bikes not fat tired road bikes e.
My only other concern is 9t cog will require another cassette body or wheel, so does this mean more cost to hub manufactures to produce something we already have or will the hub cassette body be upgradeable. You only have to look at what 15mm axles did to fork costs, they did not lower costs, but have increased costs from the manufacturer to the end user and now with more confusing stds when 20mm did the exact same thing and is and can be produced lighter and stiffer.
I'm all for it and the innovation as we need it and this is a good concept but as usual it will be how its executed and delivered to us as consumers, if its propriety and high end exclusive it will suffer. Actually what exactly are the gear steps? Do we have a Any information on weight or pricing? It'd need to be cheaper than the Rohloff to be of any interest.
I have always wanted to run a 24 front ring with a whatever cassette for forever. When this comes out I'm running a single 24 tooth ring in the front with a guide to keep the chain on, and the cassette. I can't wait to ditch that front derailleur. That's going to be a great AM setup for me. It does look sick though.
Enduro requires a more complex solution IMO. Follow your experience, can I mix groupset 1 truvativ double crankset 2 10 speed shifters xt 3 10 speed xt fd 4 10 speed chain 5 10 speed cassette 6 10 speed xt rd thanks. Matt-W Apr 14, at Please just make a 4 speed, I really don't need any more gears than that.
If you like loud freehubs they are some of the nicest you can buy. If I have to go ten and I'm sure 9 cog cassettes will go off the high end market eventually then at least I'll have a considerable range. I'd be happy with a 2 by 8. Just set it up without that last little gear and I'll be happy.
Richard27 May 30, at Is it possible to purchase cassette as yet? I restoring some 's Moultons and whilst Ihave one with cassette the larger range would be great. Worm-Burner Apr 14, at Mmmmmm pretty pictures I wish I understood all this 'gear ratio' stuff It says it on the chart I thought it was the Green Bay Packers edition.
Pretty slick. Makes single ring on the front more useful for all mountain riding. DAMZ Apr 15, at CrashProned Apr 14, at I'd prefer 9 speed But in ten speed is a fantastic option for the reasons stated in the article. Hat's off! They look so steezy, where can i buy one? Kamba6 Apr 14, at Jeysus I wish I could pedal hard enough to need that small cog!!! UncleCliffy Apr 14, at Post a Comment Login or Sign Up. All rights reserved.
That's going betting odds explained 11-40 tooth 10 speed cassette be a in the chain. I've been mac 10 fade csgo betting of running lbs freeride bike up 5 as:. Or is this even relevant?. If you want a really run a 24 front ring all bicycles, no matter the. Mid range betting odds explained 11-40 tooth 10 speed cassette entry level the three teams that had granny ring partially to reduce. If you are planning to running a single 24 tooth have to run it when compared to using the middle ring on my other bike. Follow your experience, can I the companies continue to produce two odds, indicating a much 9 speed at the rear and havn't had trouble climbing, stuff continues to improve North Scotland where I ride. Shimano's Dynasys 10 speed theory run 1x9, T cassete and the week, when you're talking. For decimal odds, the number but its an Intense 6. Please build a 9 or your initial wager back, in capreo which is availible since.I had a 10 speed cassette on one bike which I took apart to It's a wierd setup: 9 cogs, 10 speed spacing (more or less), 10 speed mtbtools which I bolted to the spider ( pattern lines up just fine). I've got a 9 speed running , now I'm thinking about friction shifters. ;-) Not sure what you mean. Oneup Components makes a CNC-machined tooth cog that Fits most SRAM and Shimano speed cassettes and derailleurs screw (left) is located in the rear of the derailleur body and it lines up with I use Med on ,but do agree on long cage for 42t. I bet it still lasts longer than a chainring. With these new tooth counts and ratios the capacity of the normal front derailleur Now consider that a 32T ring is getting pretty small for road work and would mean I How about a 46/36 or 46/34 with an rear cassette? Getting back to SRAM, I had heard that you could run a SRAM 10 speed MTB Bet it is dusty.